Clementine Lefevre: My Journey in Tinctori Posted in: Journal

Chapter 1: Introduction

The Beginning

The journey to discovering Tinctori began with extensive research. I contacted over a hundred brands across Indonesia, Malaysia, Java, Taiwan and Bali, driven by a singular requirement: to find an enterprise within Indonesia, a region that called to my heart. After declining an offer in Jakarta, I stumbled upon Tinctori in a serendipitous moment on Instagram—within the suggestions of suggestions. Tinctori caught my attention not only for its striking visuals of nature and humanity but for its alignment with my core values of sustainability, respect for nature, and honoring biodiversity.

Following this discovery, I engaged with Tinctori through Instagram, emails, and video calls. Together, we outlined a two-and-a-half-month collaboration aimed at creating 3 pieces but ended as a capsule collection. This opportunity represented a perfect synergy, allowing me to contribute my design vision while learning the intricacies of natural dyeing and traditional craftsmanship. Arriving with an open heart, I chose to let the rich Indonesian environment and Javanese culture inspire the concept, rather than predefining a theme.

Handcrafted processes are at the core of Tinctori’s values, adding humanity and uniqueness to every piece. From the indigo nursery to the intricate embroidery, each step of production passes through skilled hands, respecting the environment and adhering to the Javanese philosophy of balance—giving back as much as is taken. Indigo crops are harvested four times a year to allow proper regrowth, yielding approximately 400 kilograms of indigo paste annually. Waste is minimized: leftover leaves are composted, and filtered water from the dyeing process is returned clean to the river.

Tinctori also repurposes deadstock and offcuts into patchwork and boro pieces, ensuring sustainability. However, maintaining consistent color density remains their biggest challenge, requiring precise formulas and careful monitoring of pre-washing, weather conditions, and dye components. Looking ahead, Mas Ipul envisions turning Tinctori into a community-owned enterprise, providing stable incomes for locals. Plans include diversifying into furniture production and opening a guesthouse to showcase natural dyeing and Javanese craftsmanship.

A Unique Setting and A Warm Welcome, The Jungle Workshop

Tinctori’s workshop is nestled in a sub-village of Gemawang, 1.5 hours from Semarang, amidst indigo plantations and rice fields. For convenience and safety, I stayed at Mas Ipul’s home, embracing a rural lifestyle that initially required adjustment. This experience challenged my Western perspective on material possessions and happiness, fostering personal growth.

I was introduced to Tinctori’s community, including Mas Ipul’s family, project manager Mbak Sukmo (who also acted as my interpreter), and team members like Mas Vincent (brand strategist), Mas Awan (photographer), Bu Lastri (pattern maker), Bu Wati (seamstress) and skilled artisans across various departments. Daily interactions with pattern makers, dyers, and batik experts allowed me to immerse myself in their craft.

Chapter 2: Learning and Teaching

Exploring Local Materials and Techniques

The complexity of indigo paste production surprised me. The process spans 7-10 days, from harvesting indigo leaves to developing the dye bath, requiring expertise to ensure consistent pigment density. I also experimented with dyes derived from mahogany bark and barley, producing shades of brown, yellow, and green. Hands-on sessions in dyeing, batik, and shibori deepened my appreciation for these intricate techniques.

Tinctori’s respect for natural cycles was evident in their practices. They avoid overharvesting and source materials locally, emphasizing short supply chains and supporting nearby communities.

Gaining Knowledge from Indonesian Artisans

The artisans’ meticulous attention to detail highlighted the value of time and craftsmanship, particularly in batik, where some pieces take three months to complete. While the language barrier limited deeper conversations, I was always welcomed with warmth. The collaborative nature of my project allowed us to produce nine pieces in just over two months by leveraging the expertise of each artisan.

Contributing Creativity and Integrating My Design Style

Respecting Javanese culture and Tinctori’s design preferences, I introduced new concepts while ensuring wearability in Indonesia. My designs explored themes of transformation—aligned with my brand, Metamorph—through adaptable garments featuring zippers, drawstrings, and modular patterns. This exchange of ideas enriched both my understanding of their craft and their approach to design.

Chapter 3: Creating The Collection

Concept Development and Inspiration

At the heart of my collection lies the profound interconnectedness of humans, nature, spirits, and gods—an essential element of Javanese philosophy. This worldview sees life as a continuum where each entity exists in balance, resonating with the rhythms of the natural and spiritual worlds. In this context, humans are not dominators but humble participants in a larger, intricate web of existence.

This philosophy inspired me to create garments that embody harmony and interconnection. The designs reflect the idea of duality and unity, with modular and transformative features that encourage interaction and adaptability. Zippers, drawstrings, and layered constructions allow wearers to shift the garment’s form and function, mirroring the fluid interplay between the tangible and the unseen.

The natural world served as both muse and medium, with the landscape of Java offering endless inspiration. The vivid hues of sunsets, the textures of rice fields, the night sky, and the timeless beauty of Javanese temples are subtly embedded in each piece. Yet, beyond aesthetics, the collection aims to evoke a sense of reverence—an acknowledgment of the spirits that inhabit the land, the wisdom of ancestors, and the omnipresence of deities.

Material Selection and Symbolic Techniques

Rooted in sustainability, the collection utilizes locally sourced fabrics and natural dyes that respect the environment and its cycles. Indigo, harvested from Tinctori’s own plantations, symbolizes spirituality and depth, while hues derived from mahogany bark and barley evoke the richness of the earth. Batik and shibori techniques became not just decorative tools but narrative devices, each motif carrying a story or a prayer. This approach not only celebrates traditional craftsmanship but also reimagines it for a contemporary audience, bridging ancient wisdom with modern design sensibilities. Each piece becomes a wearable narrative, an offering that ties the wearer to the land and its spiritual essence.

The Spirit of Collaboration

Working alongside Tinctori’s artisans brought the collection to life. Their knowledge of traditional techniques and local philosophies infused authenticity into every garment. The collaboration was not just about producing clothes but creating pieces imbued with meaning—a testament to the unity of human creativity, natural resources, and spiritual inspiration.

Material Selection and Dyeing Techniques

Material choices were guided by sustainability and local availability. Each piece reflected a careful balance of tradition and innovation, integrating natural dyes and symbolic elements like butterflies and stars to honor the region’s fauna and flora.

Chapter 4: Challenges and Lesson Learned

Influence of Environment and Culture

Javanese philosophies, such as “ikhlas tanpa pambrih” (selfless sincerity), and the interconnectedness of spirits, gods, nature, and humans inspired my designs. The collection embodies this harmony, reflecting Indonesia’s ecological values and spiritual depth.

Emphasizing Sustainability

Observing Tinctori’s eco-conscious practices reinforced my commitment to sustainability. This ethos shaped my creative vision, emphasizing minimal environmental impact and respect for biodiversity.

Overcoming Obstacles

Language barriers were mitigated by support from Sukmo and Vincent. Time constraints required simplifying complex designs, and achieving stable green dyes proved challenging. Adapting to these situations strengthened my problem-solving skills and resilience. This experience deepened my technical knowledge, artistic perspective, and understanding of collaboration. It also reshaped my values, encouraging simplicity and mindfulness.

Shaping My Brand’s Identity

This internship clarified my vision for Metamorph, culminating in a logo design and plans to launch my brand by selling part of this collection in France. I proposed extending our partnership remotely, offering to design future collections. This ongoing collaboration could merge their artisanal expertise with my creative direction, fostering mutual growth. This transformative experience with Tinctori not only enriched my skills but also aligned with my lifelong aspiration to integrate sustainability, artistry, and global collaboration into my work.

Text and picture by Clementine LeFevre @clementine_lfvr